Using your Nikon CoolPix 990, Nikon Coolpix 995, or Nikon
CoolPix 4500
with non-Nikon off-camera (External) flash
or a professional strobe (strobes) for serious digital studio work.
This page does NOT
apply to CoolPix 880, CoolPix 900, and CoolPix 950
(Updated July 20, 2003)

Photo taken with Nikon CoolPix 990
(CP 990) with Novatron 120ws strobe unit. Photo was taken over a light box with
white backdrop paper used as reflector. The exposure was determined using a Minolta IVF
with the ISO of CP 990 set to 100.
Exposure: 1/1000 sec @ f:8.
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CoolPix 990 with off-camera metz flash mounted on stroboframe bracket with AS-E900
cable/wein HSHS safe-sync bounced from the white wall and the ceiling behind me. 1/15 sec.
@ f-3.2 on Manual mode - Flash set to Auto.
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Nikon CoolPix 990- 1/1000 sec (to blacken the indoors
background in a bowling alley) @f:4 dictated by auto setting of an on-camera VIVITAR 285HV
flash unit mounted on a stroboframe extender connected to the 990 via AS-E900 cable and
Wein's Safe-Sync. To soften the harsh flash effect, a LUMIQUEST PROMAX MINI SOFTBOX was
attached to the flash using a thick rubber band. The image was converted to B&W then
back to RGB. Added +20R -20B to tone the image.
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-1-
Buy yourself a Nikon AS-E900 cable- it costs around $35 and you must
have it. it screws under the flash on your CoolPix 990 (CP990) camera. You can try the
following links:
http://www.atman-usa.com/
http://www.helixcamera.com/
http://www.central-camera.com/
http://www.truedataonline.com/
If You still can not find it please click on
http://www.altavista.com
Use AS-E900 and sale
as search keywords. |

AS-E900 Cable
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-2-
You MUST have a SAFE-SYNC HS Voltage Regulator - This is to prevent frying of your $1000 camera.
Generally this camera can handle a 240VOLT triggering voltage- This safe-sync device
reduces the triggering voltage of a powerful flash or a strobe (up to 400 volts) to about
6 (six) volts which is well below the recommended max. voltage of 240 volts (1/40th). It
slides in the Nikon AS-E900 hot-shoe slot and need to be tightened. SAFE-SYNC
HSHS (Hot Shoe to Hot Shoe) is made by WEIN products INC. 115 WEST 25th STREET, LA, CA,
90007 and marketed by The Saunders Group, 21 Jet View Drive, Rochester, NY, 14624. This is
a great investment for any strobe unit. For more info
you can try:
saundersphoto.com
or to purchase try:
camerasbrookwood @
1.800.559.6543
So far (October 22, 2002) I have used this set up for more than
13,000 flash pictures with a Speedotron strobe, a Novatron strobe, a Vivitar 285 HV,
and a Metz 45 flash units. |

WEIN SAFE-SYNC HSHS
2.1
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-3-
CONNECTING TO AN OFF-CAMERA (External) FLASH UNIT:
Connect the standard sync cord from your flash
to the PC terminal on Safe-Sync. Now you are ready to go. To test, take a picture. If the
flash does not work, do not panic! Change the hot-shoe position and try again. If it fails
again, compare it with the following diagram (a working unit) . Also make sure the screw
of AS-E900 is tight under your CoolPix 990 (CP 990).
If it still does not work, set your CP 990 to "A" (Auto), point it at a
dark place (with the uncircled lightning bolt showing on screens) and take a picture. That
should do it.
If it still does not work, get a very thin piece of wire and connect the two
connectors of AS-E900 (what is screwed into 990)
as shown above. If it does not flash, check each component OUTSIDE of the camera
if not check the camera settings
Please note: If you are
not familiar with CoolPix 990 and its flash applications, I promise you that in the
beginning it WILL frustrate you because the flash would not fire. After taking 14000+
flash pictures, I reached the conclusion that most of my problems were caused by a faulty
synch cord! Have plenty of them |

AS-E900 Connected to a CoolPix 990/995/4500 camera
3.1 |

3.2
Wein HSHS Safe Sync (top),
End of AS-E900 cable (bottom)
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-4-
CONNECTING TO A STUDIO STROBE:
Follow the same steps as 3 and the strobe should fire. If it does not fire,
don't give up! Try the following:
REPLACE the STROBE with a small FLASH and see whether the flash fires. If it does
not, you have a problem with the wiring or camera set up. If the flash fires, then the
strobe's POLARITY must be changed for it to function. Simply PULL THE SYNC CORD OUT OF THE
UNIT, TURN THE SYNCH CHORD BY 180 DEGREES and plug it in. With my set up, my old
(17+years) Speedotron STROBE would not fire until I unplugged the connection to the sync
chord, turned it 180 degrees and then plugged it in (as shown) |

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 |
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Coolpix 990/Novatron actual setup (enlarged)


Coolpix 990/Novatron actual setup (complete)

Coolpix 990/Vivitar 285hv setup + Lumiquest Promax Ultrasoft +
35mm/Medium format flash bracket that I am using
for the setup. The 990 could only be mounted this way on this bracket
--------------------------------

Nikon CoolPix 990 Digital
camera handheld - 1 sec. exposure at dusk with white balance set to Incandescent
(Tungsten) from the sunroof of my car while driving home. If you like crazy stuff like
this, please check out
http://photocritique.net
and look for Farzad as the Last Name and view images under
"Using Coolpix 990 as a paint brush"

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STEP BY STEP PROCESS TO DISABLE THE INTERNAL FLASH IN "MANUAL
MODE" |
-5-
5.1) Set your camera to "M"Rec
(Manual mode).
5.2) Press MENU button, a drop down menu appears on the screen
Choose option 2 (SHOOTING MENU)
5.3) Right click on the lightning bolt symbol
5.4) Down-click to highlight the "Speedlight Control" option, then
Right-Click-
5.5) Choose "Int Flash Off" and then Right-Click (THIS TURNS OFF THE
INTERNAL/ON-CAMERA FLASH)
5.6) Press the button under ISO on the back of the camera until the flash symbol
without a circle appears on the back of the camera.
VERY VERY IMPORTANT
If you have done this correctly, there should be two lightning
bolt symbols-
* At the top RHS of the MENU (on the back of the camera) one without a circle and one with a circle If
you only see the one with a circle, press the button under "ISO" on the back of
the camera a few times until lightening bolt (flash) symbol appears as shown.

AND/OR
* On the Right hand side of the LCD panel (top of the
camera) there should be a lightning bolt without a circle
with a lightning bolt with a circle right under it

SPECIAL NOTE: The
screen at the back of the camera WILL show a brighter image (even when set to the
darkest/lowest setting) than what you will see on your PC and in PhotoShop. For critical work you must use a
flashmeter to determine the correct exposure of the subject. If you totally depend on what
you see on the back of the camera, there is a good chance that you will be disappointed.
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-6-
6.1- USING A STROBE:
If you are using a strobe and have a flashmeter (I use Minolta IVF) You are in business.
If you don't, for non-critical work trial and error is your best bet.
To start: Set your shutter speed to 1/60 sec. (although the camera takes flash
pictures with any Shutter Speed / Exposure Time (up to 1/1000 sec.)) and your aperture
opening at f-8 or f-11 to try it out.
If the smallest aperture of the camera is still too large for the strobe/flash unit
(your pictures are overexposed) you can use Neutral Density filters to reduce the amount
of light reaching the camera. ND of .3 reduces light by 1 stop, ND .6 reduces it by 2
stops, ND .9 reduces it by 3 stops, ND 1.2 reduces it by 4 stops, and so on...
6.2- Using an automatic
flash with your camera set to Manual Exposure Mode (M) with your camera's shutter speed
(exposure time) set to say 1/60 sec.
If you are using an automatic
flash (my favorite is VIVITAR 285 HV that costs under $100). Since the eye/sensor of ANY automatic flash unit sees and converts
everything to 18% gray, you as a photographer MUST compensate for this shortcoming!
Therefore:
For a white subject,
you can set the camera's aperture to two stop larger than what is indicated on the flash.
For example if your flash indicated an F-STOP of "8", set the aperture opening
of your lens to f-4.
For brighter than average (Light Gray
Toned) subject, you can set the camera's aperture to one stop larger than
what is indicated on the flash. For example if your flash indicated an F-STOP of
"8", set the aperture opening of your lens to f-5.6.
For an average (Medium Gray Toned)
subject (looks like an 18% gray card!) you can set the camera and the
flash to the SAME F-STOP (say f-5.6) and shoot.
For darker than average (Dark Gray
Toned) subject, you can set the camera's aperture to one stop smaller than
what is indicated on the flash. For example if your flash indicated an F-STOP of
"5.6", set the aperture opening of your lens to f-8.
For a black subject,
you can set the camera's aperture to two stop smaller than what is indicated on the flash.
For example if your flash indicated an F-STOP of "f-5.6", set the aperture
opening of your lens to f-11.
Good Luck
Bahman Farzad
If you find a mistake, please let me know. I will be thankful. If this
page was helpful please drop me a note!

PLEASE CLICK
HERE TO VISIT THE AUTHOR'S GALLERY
Photographs taken with Mavica: A Sony Digital Camera |
Spot metering with Nikon CoolPix 990
Spot metering with Nikon CoolPix 5000
Spot metering with Nikon CoolPix 4500
Spot metering with Nikon CoolPix 5700
This
page has been brought to you compliments of:
The Confused
Photographer's Guide to: |
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Photographic Exposure and the
Simplified Zone System |
On-camera Spotmetering
(Spot Metering / Partial Metering) |